AMBASSADOR & SMART FASHION
Choosing buttons is an important step to achieve a
bespoke suit. Indeed, button type plays a role on the suit shape
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| Button jacket by AMBFA |
Single-Breasted
Jackets
Most
modern suits have a single-breasted jacket. How to button it depends on two
factors: the number of buttons the jacket has and where the buttons are in
relation to your waist.
A
jacket with a high stance has buttons at and above the natural waist, while a
jacket with a low stance (more common these days) has its buttons at and below
the waist.
One-button
jackets
Single-breasted
one-button jackets are becoming more common (and the classic choice for Black
Tie), and should always be buttoned when standing.
You
may unbutton when seated.
Two-button
jackets
·
Conventional way to button a two-button
jacket is to button the top button and leave the lower undone. A few
possible exceptions:
·
Men who like a very long lapel sometimes
button the lower button and fold the lapel all the way down past the top
buttonhole.
· An unusually high-stance jacket might
look more proportional buttoned at the lower button.
·
Very tall men may need to use the lower
button rather than the upper to keep the jacket from spreading out above their
waist and exposing the trouser-front and belt buckle (looks unsightly with a
buttoned jacket).
Three-button
jackets
Conventional
method is to always button the middle button and to button the top button if
desired, while always leaving the bottom button undone.
Fastening
all three buttons at once looks stiff and should be avoided!
Double-Breasted
Jackets
Double-breasted
jackets are almost always worn buttoned. It’s very unusual to unbutton
one.
Double-breasted
jackets are described with the total number of buttons on the suit front
followed by the number of working buttons — so a “six-on-four” jacket has six
buttons but only four buttonholes.
Generally
speaking you want to button all the buttons that have working buttonholes.
If
you plan to leave some buttons undone, it is most traditional to fasten the top
button. However, men who prefer a longer line have been leaving the
lowest button undone instead for quite a few years now, including members of
the British royal family, so you’re probably safe either way.
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