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Ambassador & Smart Fashion
A dart is a seam in a piece of fabric to get rid of excess
material and give it a contour to fit your bodies shape. Darts are folds
sewn into the cloth to help provide a three-dimensional shape. The front
dart gives fullness to the chest and is used by almost all British and Italian
tailors.
By AMBFA www.ambfa.com
The different between a suit with darts and a suit without
darts is all about fitting. We will mostly see suit with darts on Italian suits
that is slim suits.
Thus, you would not want a dart because you do not want
that piece of clothing fitted. Like a t-shirt. Or a sack-suit which is supposed
to hang on you a sack. The other reason is you prefer a cleaner look and do not
like the seam. The main reason you would want a dart is because you like things
fitted, and cheap. A dart is generally one of the simplest way to deal with
excess fabric. If you really like things contoured, you'll probably have some
darts in there. If you go to a really good tailor or get something made
bespoke, they have clever ways of using existing seams and measuring so as to
have less excess in the first place and you can get something slim-fitted and
no darts. But you pay a price.
As we stated above, a basic dart is
shaped like a point. It's wide at one end and narrow at the other. You will see
these along a seam line where added shape is needed. They can be straight or
curved.
Below is a definition list of the
types of darts you are likely to see in various garment styles. Unfortunately,
we didn't find an example of some of the less common ones. The one thing they
have in common is points. There are always two at the wide part of the
"V" and one at the point of the "V". Sometimes there is
also a set of points mid-way through the "V", and sometimes there's a
line down the middle.
Waist darts: This kind of dart speaks for itself.
You most likely own a garment with this type of dart. It brings in the shape of
the garment from the waist to the hip. Below is a pant pattern with waist
darts.
Bust darts: They
start under the arm at the side seam and point toward the fullest part of the
bust.
French darts: This
type of dart is used in place of bust darts. It's one long dart, beginning at
the bust and curving down to the side seam. Since these are so long and/or
wide, usually a portion of the fabric is cut away to reduce bulk.
Elbow darts: Darts created
at the elbow are usually seen in elaborately styled sleeves or fitted sleeves
made of two pieces. Sometimes, you want the shape of the sleeve to be very
fitted, but the elbow still needs room to move. Therefore, one, two or three
small darts are sewn from the sleeve underarm seam to the elbow point.
Contour darts: Again,
slightly contrary to the rest of the crowd, these darts are shaped as a
diamond. You'll see contour darts used on longer garment styles, like a tunic,
jacket or dress. They can be sewn on the front and/or the back. Since they are
diamond-shaped, they add shape at the bust, waist and hips all at once. The
pattern piece below is the back of a jacket, where contour darts are used to
add shape at the waist back.
You
may love your suits, and you may even feel like wearing your favorite tailored
number on a daily bases, but in order to prolong their lives, you must give
your suits a breather. This means you should have at least three good options
sitting in your closet, ready to be rotated throughout the working week. The
same advice is applicable to shoes and shirts.
By AMBFA www.ambfa.com
== This
advice might sound funny, but it acts however as a response to a real issue.
Although buying a suit in the right size is the common thing to do, a lot of
gentlemen still struggle in finding that absolute perfect fit. Needless to
point out that wearing a too tight suit is likely to result in the cloth
wearing thin, or even splitting. So the next time you decide to invest in a
suit, do make sure the fit is flawless.
== The
trousers are the first ones to wear out, so if you care about extending the
life of your suit, investing in an extra pair of trousers may be the smart
thing to do. One additional pair of pants per suit will give you plenty of
opportunities to alternate your favorite ensembles.
== It
may feel like the natural thing to do: wear the suit, dry-clean the suit, but
despite the good intentions, dry-cleaning your suits should be avoided unless
absolutely necessary. In time, the chemicals are bound to damage the natural
fibers, resulting in them weakening and breaking down. Dry-cleaning the suits
sparingly means doing it once every six months.
== No
matter how tired you feel by the end of the work day, never, ever abandon your
suit in a crumpled heap on the floor. Instead, invest in a proper wooden hanger
with a wide-spread contoured shape to preserve the shape and drape of the suit.
Make sure there’s plenty of room in the closet for the suit to hang and for the
fabric to breath and dry.
Why
is the lining important? Here is the question that Ambassador & Smart
Fashion will answer in this article.
·Lining are important for clothing in the
sense that is added weight to your jacket.
·Secondly it helps your suit to fit you
well, by stressing contours of your clothes. •Lining
allows the garment to drape and fold nicely, prevents it from sticking to the
skin, facilitates dressing by making the inside smoother, protects the garment
from inside, prevents stretching, insulates and reduces translucency of thin
fabrics.
·Thirdly, a well chose lining adds a good
taste to your jacket.
AMBFA Lining sample www.ambfa.com
What
to check before choosing linings:
·Lining is usually the first part to be
worn out in a piece of clothing. Lining material should have the same
washability as the shell fabric.
·The lining should be breathable and it
should be smooth enough so that the garment is easy to put on and wear.
·Lining material should be chosen
according to the shell material’s thickness and intended use. The thicker
fabric, the thicker the lining.
·For elastic materials, choose elastic
lining or cut the lining material on the bias. The lining should not be seen
through the outer material.
A
good jacket is made upon many bases. It is not only the first part that count,
there is also inside lining. In this article at Ambassador & Smart
Fashion, we will try to explain how important is the lining and how to
choose the right one.
In
this article we will present you the
types of lining.Lining is the garment’s inner part under
the bodice. To recognize them is simple, they are always labeled as ‘lining’’.
a-Bemberg:The
most easy access to this fabric and quite frankly it’s the lowest cost/Decent
quality “lining” fabric out there.
Bember lining by AMBFA www.ambfa.com
b-Silk charmeuse:
which is much more expensive than other linings, that is right!
Silk Charmeuse by AMBFA www.ambfa.com
c-Crepe de chine:
it is a crepe silk that looks like the matte side of silk charmeuse. It
works great as a lining in jackets, we think, but it’s not as slippery as a charmeuse,
so keep that in mind.
Crepe de chine lining by AMBFA www.ambfa.com
d-China
silk: is very lightweight and has a
plain weave to it. It’s great as a lining in garments that are delicate.
China silk by AMBFA www.ambfa.com
e-Printed linings
Printed lining
f-Stretch lining:
Which are rare to be found.
Stretch lining by AMBFA www.ambfa.com
In
the next article of Ambassador & Smart Fashion we will gave you the
importance of lining.
